Lass and Kozy Corner Kitchen bring new life to historic Merrill building

Merrill native Robert “Bob” Lass has made it his mission to restore a local landmark, bringing back a community gathering spot while preserving a hidden architectural feature.
Lass, a 26-year Navy veteran and local business owner, opened Kozy Corner Kitchen (formerly Kozy Korner) earlier this month after purchasing and renovating the building slowly over the past two years.
“I just had this bad thought in my head that, you know, how the City likes to tear down buildings,” Lass said about his motivation to purchase the property. “I just hated the thought of the City tearing this place down ...” Most recently prior to his purchase, a motor vehicle had crashed into the former restaurant, causing a great deal of damage and shutting it down indefinitely. It remained closed until Lass decided to take on the project.
Lass completely redid the entire restaurant—from the dining area to the kitchen and everything in it—with one notable exception. He retained an original feature that had long lain hidden—and one of the most striking features of the restaurant today—the building’s original tin ceiling, which had been hidden beneath a drop ceiling for years.
“When I took out the false ceiling, that was up there,” Lass said, pointing to the ornate ceiling now painted gold. “All the center pieces are solid copper, and the outer edges are tin.”

A rich history

Digging in newspaper archives, the earliest mention of the location I found during a mini research session was a reference to the building being Shorts Sales & Service in August 1959. The next mention is on May 15, 1969, when a grand opening was held at the location for a new restaurant, named Haffe’s Kitchen, owned by Laona Haffeman. Laona was Merrill resident Steve Sabatke’s grandma, and he remembers it already being a restaurant when she and his Grandpa Roy bought the building. “We always called it Kozy Korner even when Grandma ran it,” he said.
Just months after the Haffemans purchased the restaurant, it was listed for sale due to health reasons as “real estate and restaurant equipment for $10,500.”
In September 1970, Mrs. Kenneth Rowe of Wausau purchased and reopened the business as Kozy Korner. It changed hands again in mid-1974, with Chub Severt opening the location under the name Kozy Korner Kitchen. That name has stuck and been associated with the location for more than 50 years, until Lass changed the spelling of Korner to the traditional spelling of Corner this year—although he said he doesn’t yet have the new signage for the building.
That review of newspaper archives revealed the restaurant has changed hands many more times over the years, including in October of 1977, when Judy and Dick Goff became the new owners of Kozy Korner Restaurant. In May 1981, Marianne Klade became the new owner, and she also opened an Eastside Kozy Korner location at 1219 E. Main St. in April 1985, with the original restaurant being dubbed the Westside Kozy Korner. Sometime between 1985 and 1996, Connie Fischer took over ownership, and in 1989 ads ran that billed the restaurant as Kozy Korner Restaurant & Coffee Shop. Fischer ran the business until she sold it to Pete Buntrock in early 1999 who then ran it simply as Kozy Korner Restaurant. In January 2004, Kozy Korner Restaurant was purchased by a new owner, 44-year-old Marjorie Kautz and her husband, Donald. Marjorie managed and operated the diner until her unexpected death just 19 months later on Aug. 25, 2005. Lass said he purchased the property from Marge’s husband, Donald Kautz.

New look and plans for the future

With the completion of the renovations, the dining room interior walls now feature rough-sawn lumber from a Wisconsin supplier, sealed with a clear finish, giving the space a rustic vibe. On the walls hang deer and fish mounts, complementing the lumber and reflecting Lass’s passion for the outdoors.
“I’m looking for more mounts, more fish, and over time, this will all be filled up,” he said, gesturing to the walls.
The restaurant held a soft opening in February, followed by a grand opening about three weeks ago, which Lass described as “jammed” with customers.
Lass’s investment in the renovations and his commitment to preserving a part of Merrill’s history proves Kozy Corner—however you spell it—is likely to be an important part of the community for many years to come.

A familiar menu with a unique twist

Currently, Kozy Corner Kitchen operates primarily as a breakfast diner but also serves lunch items including burgers, fries, grilled cheese, tomato soup, and chili. One unique feature is the restaurant’s extensive cheese selection.
“You have 50 some choices of cheese, cheese of the day,” Lass explained. “You buy your brick of cheese, we’ll slice it and put it on your grilled cheese sandwich, you take the rest home.” He pointed to a small refrigerated case in the corner of the dining area.
The restaurant also functions as “a little mini cheese house,” with cheese sourced from Dupont Cheese in Marion, Wis. “They only use whole milk in their cheese, and it’s just so creamy, so flavorful,” Lass said.
When asked what he wants Kozy Corner Kitchen to be known for, Lass emphasized cleanliness and quality. “I want to be known for having the cleanest restaurant in Merrill, always, without question,” he said.

In the kitchen, Lass has a chef he describes as “exceptional.”
“I have not had one complaint or issue of a burger or an omelet—nothing ever sent back,” Lass said.
The restaurant is open seven days a week, with hours from 6 a.m. to 1 p.m. except Mondays and Tuesdays when they operate from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Locally-sourced fresh bakery is available on the weekends.

Plans to expand to dinner

In the future, Lass plans to expand service to include dinner hours, operating from 4 to 8 p.m. with an all-Italian menu, once he secures additional staff. “I’m always looking for more cooks and waitresses,” he said, particularly for the planned dinner service.

Kozy Corner Kitchen joins Jokin’ Joe’s Bait and Tackle Sporting Goods as the second Merrill business owned by Lass.
“My goal is to get this place and the other place—get people trained up,” Lass said, explaining his long-term plan to possibly sell the businesses to employees once they’ve been fully trained in all aspects of operations.
For now, Kozy Corner Kitchen serves as a comfortable gathering place for the community, just as it did for many years before. As Lass says, it’s “just a place to hang out and have fun” with “really good food.”